There's lots to like about this chic little New American eatery, which took over the space of an erstwhile KFC. But perhaps the single best thing is the huge, pull-apart dinner rolls, shaped something like a giant three-leaf clover. They boast an airy golden crumb under a glossy, eggshell-thin crust lightly dusted with crunchy salt crystals. Pulled warm from the oven and served with honey butter, they're the apotheosis of the old-fashioned Parker House roll. And, best of all, they're free — though you have to ask for them. Some do, more than once.


